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Shichahai

FANG Chen · Beijing Shichahai view.jpg · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 2.0

Attraction · Beijing

Shichahai

Three linked lakes and the hutong quarter around them — the city’s evening walk.

WhatLakes and hutongs
DistrictXicheng
Best hourLate afternoon
HowOn foot
About

Shichahai

Shichahai is the name for three linked lakes north-west of the Forbidden City and the grey-brick lane quarter that surrounds them. It is the most intact piece of old Beijing that is still ordinary — people live here, and the hutongs around the northern and western shores are residential rather than restored for visitors. The lakes themselves are used all year: rowing boats in summer, skating when they freeze hard enough in winter, and walking at every hour. The southern and eastern shores have become commercial, with bars and restaurants along the water, and the difference between the two halves is worth knowing before you choose a direction. Prince Gong’s Mansion is immediately north, and the Drum and Bell towers are a short walk east.

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What to See

What to see

Water, lanes and two towers — and the split between the quiet and busy shores.

The lakes

  • Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai, the three linked lakes the district is named around.
  • The Silver Ingot Bridge between two of them, which is the classic vantage point.
  • Rowing boats in the warm months; skating in a hard winter.

The lanes

  • The residential hutongs on the northern and western sides, which are the reason to come.
  • The Drum and Bell towers, a short walk east of the water.
  • Prince Gong’s Mansion, immediately to the north.
Getting There

Getting there

Xicheng District, north-west of the palace, and walked rather than driven.

Arriving

  • Subway stations serve the edges of the district; the lanes themselves are walked.
  • It is a straightforward walk north from Jingshan and the Forbidden City’s northern exit.
  • Cycling the lanes is common and pleasant outside the busiest hours.
Best Time

Best time

Late afternoon into the evening, or early morning for the lanes.

When to go

  • Late afternoon, when the light is on the water and the district fills up.
  • Early morning for the residential hutongs, before the day starts.
  • Winter, if the lakes freeze hard enough to skate — which is a genuine Beijing institution.
Visitor Intelligence

Visitor intelligence

One choice determines what kind of visit you have.

Practical

  • The southern and eastern shores are commercial; the northern and western are residential and quieter.
  • The hutongs are people’s homes — the courtyards are private, and photographing into them is not welcome.
  • Pedicab tours are heavily touted around the bridge; walking costs nothing and sees more.
Nearby

Nearby

All within a walk of the water.

Prince Gong’s Mansion
Immediately north
Lama Temple
East in Dongcheng
Yuanmingyuan
North-west in Haidian
Good to Know

Frequently asked

Three linked lakes — Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai — north-west of the Forbidden City, and the hutong quarter around them. It is the most intact piece of old Beijing that is still ordinary residential city rather than a restored visitor area.
The northern and western shores are residential and quiet; the southern and eastern shores are commercial, with bars and restaurants along the water. Knowing the difference before you set off decides what kind of afternoon you have.
In a hard winter, yes — skating on the frozen lakes is a long-standing Beijing institution. In the warm months rowing boats are on the water instead. Whether the ice is safe in a given year is a local call, not a guaranteed fixture.
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