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Attraction · Neil Island

Laxmanpur Beach

A long shallow beach on the west side of Neil where the sunset goes, and where the tide draws back far enough to walk out across the reef flat.

Time needed2 – 3 hours
WhereWest side of Neil
FacesWest — the sunset beach
At low tideA wide reef flat
At the north endThe natural coral bridge
FootwearEssential on the flat
About

Laxmanpur

Laxmanpur runs along the west side of Neil and is where the island goes in the evening. It is long, white and very shallow, and at low tide the water draws back to expose a wide flat of sand, rock and reef that you can walk a considerable distance out across — which is a completely different experience from swimming and is arguably the better one. At the northern end of the beach, reachable only at low tide, is the natural coral bridge that Neil is best known for. Because the beach faces west it gets the sunset, and because Neil is a small quiet island the sunset here is a gathering of perhaps a few dozen people rather than a few hundred. It is the beach that most people remember from the Andamans, and the tide table decides almost everything about how a visit goes.

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What to See

What to do

Walk the flat at low tide, swim at high, and stay for the sunset.

At low tide

  • The reef flat, exposed for a considerable distance, walkable and full of pools, urchins, small fish and coral.
  • The walk north along the beach to the natural coral bridge, which is only reachable at low water.
  • The rock formations along the shore, which are exposed and are the reason the beach looks different every visit.

At high tide

  • A long shallow swim, calmer than anywhere except Bharatpur.
  • The beach at its most conventional, which is when most photographs of it are taken.
  • Better snorkelling in the shallows than at low water, when the flat is dry.

The sunset

  • The beach faces west and the sunset is what it is known for.
  • The crowd is a few dozen rather than a few hundred, which is the difference between Neil and Havelock.
  • The light on the exposed flat at low-tide sunset is the best of both and is a matter of luck with the timing.
Getting There

Getting there

Across the island from the jetty, which on Neil means about ten minutes.

On the island

  • A short ride or cycle west from the jetty; Neil is small and flat and nothing is far.
  • Bicycles are hired everywhere and are the right way to reach it, particularly for sunset.
  • Auto-rickshaws run from the jetty and the village.

The tide

  • Check the tide before deciding when to go. It changes the beach completely and it decides whether the coral bridge is reachable.
  • Tide tables are posted around the island and every guesthouse knows the day’s times.
  • A low tide near sunset is the ideal and does not happen every day.

Combining it

  • With the natural coral bridge at the northern end, which is the same walk at low water.
  • With Bharatpur in the morning, which is the standard shape of a Neil day.
  • With dinner in the village afterwards, which is a short ride back.
Best Time

When to visit

Sunset, on a falling or low tide. That combination is the best two hours on Neil.

Time of day

  • Late afternoon into sunset, which is what the beach is for.
  • Early morning is quiet and good for the flat if the tide is right.
  • The middle of the day is hot and the beach has little shade.

The tide

  • Low tide for the reef flat and the coral bridge; high tide for swimming.
  • The two are roughly six hours apart, so a full day covers both.
  • The tide is the single most important variable at Laxmanpur.

Time of year

  • November to April is the season — calm, dry and clear.
  • May to September is the monsoon, with rough seas and disrupted ferries.
  • The sunset is reliable in season and is not in the monsoon.
Visitor Intelligence

Visitor intelligence

A living reef flat that you can walk on, which means being careful where you put your feet.

On the flat

  • Wear something on your feet. Sea urchins, sharp coral and rock make bare feet a genuinely bad idea.
  • Do not stand on live coral. Walk in the sand channels between rather than across the heads.
  • Watch the returning tide. It comes in across a flat surface faster than it looks.

Wildlife

  • The pools hold urchins, small fish, crabs and occasionally octopus. Look and leave.
  • Nothing should be picked up, moved or taken. Removing coral or shells from the Andamans is prohibited and checked at the airport.
  • The flat is a habitat rather than a floor, and it is the main reason to come.

Practicalities

  • Take a torch if you are staying for sunset; the road back is unlit and Neil has limited street lighting.
  • Cash only in practice, and mobile coverage is unreliable.
  • Very little shade on the beach itself.

Access

  • The beach is reached from the road across soft sand with no made path.
  • The reef flat is uneven, wet and slippery, and is not manageable for anyone unsteady.
  • The sunset can be watched from the top of the beach without going onto the flat at all.
Good to Know

Frequently asked

Because Laxmanpur is very shallow, and at low tide the water draws back to expose a wide flat of sand, rock and reef that can be walked a considerable distance out across — a completely different experience from swimming and arguably the better one. Low tide also determines whether the natural coral bridge at the northern end is reachable at all. High tide gives a long calm swim instead. Tide tables are posted around the island.
Something on your feet, without exception. The flat holds sea urchins, sharp coral and rock, and bare feet there is a genuinely bad idea that produces a steady stream of injuries. Walk in the sand channels between the coral heads rather than across them — standing on live coral kills it. And watch the returning tide, which comes in across a flat surface considerably faster than it appears to.
It is the best one on Neil, and many people prefer it to Radhanagar on Havelock for a reason that has nothing to do with the sky: the crowd is a few dozen rather than a few hundred. A low tide falling near sunset, with the light across the exposed reef flat, is the best two hours the island offers — but that combination is a matter of luck with the tide table rather than something you can plan for on a short stay.
At high tide, yes, and it is a long shallow calm swim — second only to Bharatpur on the island for ease. At low tide there is effectively nothing to swim in near the shore because the water has gone out across the flat. Snorkelling in the shallows is better at high water for the same reason. Most visitors do Bharatpur in the morning for swimming and come here for the evening.
A short ride or cycle west from the jetty — Neil is small and flat and nothing on it is far. Bicycles are hired everywhere for very little and are the right way to do it. If you are staying for sunset, take a torch: the road back is unlit and the island has very limited street lighting. Cash only in practice, and mobile coverage is unreliable across Neil.
The beach is reached from the road across soft sand with no made path, and the reef flat itself is uneven, wet and slippery and is not manageable for anyone unsteady on their feet. That said, the sunset can be watched perfectly well from the top of the beach without going down onto the flat at all, which makes a visit worthwhile for most people even where the walk out is not an option.
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