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Lonavala

BHARATHGOTTEMUKKULA · Rajmachi top view.jpg · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0

City Guide · India

Lonavala

A ghat-top hill station named after the caves around it, midway between Mumbai and Pune.

Best timeJun–Sep (monsoon) · Oct–Feb
Ideal stay1–2 nights
Elevation624 m
From Mumbai96 km
From Pune64 km
Overview

Lonavala

Lonavala sits on the lip of the Western Ghats escarpment at 624 metres, roughly midway along the old road and rail line between Mumbai and Pune — 96 kilometres from one and 64 from the other. That position is the whole of its history: it is a municipal council in Pune district that exists because the railway stopped there, and it has been the escape from both cities ever since. The name is older and better than the town: it comes from leni, caves, and avali, a series — a series of caves — for the rock-cut Buddhist complexes at Karla, Bhaja and Bedsa that lie within a few kilometres of it. Most visitors come for the monsoon, when the ghats run with water and the escarpment disappears into cloud. Anyone coming for the caves and the forts should come in the dry months instead.

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Experiences

What to do in Lonavala

Two entirely different trips share one town: the rock-cut caves and hill forts, and the monsoon.

The caves the town is named for

  • The Karla caves, 10.9 km away, where the Grand Chaitya is the largest rock-cut chaitya hall in India.
  • The Bhaja caves at Malavli — 22 excavations of the second century BCE and among the earliest chaitya halls anywhere.
  • The Bedsa caves, the third of the series in the name, quieter than either.
  • The Ekvira Devi temple at the Karla site, which occupies the space of one of the two lost pillars outside the chaitya.

The forts

  • Lohagad at 1,033 m, reached from Malavli, with its four gates intact and the Vinchu Kata spur running north-west.
  • Visapur, the larger and less visited fort on the same ridge.
  • Both are walks rather than drives; the last stretch is on foot in each case.

The town and the ghats

  • Bhushi Dam, which draws crowds in the monsoon when water runs over the steps.
  • Lonavala Lake, at its fullest after the rains and largely dry by late spring.
  • The Tiger’s Leap and Rajmachi viewpoints on the escarpment edge.
  • Chikki, the hard candy the town is known for and sells on every street.
How Long to Stay

How long to stay

Day 1

The town and the edge

Arrive by train, walk the market and the chikki shops, and take the escarpment viewpoints in the late afternoon.

Day 2

Karla and Bhaja

The Grand Chaitya at Karla early, the Ekvira temple on the same rock, then across to Bhaja for the chaitya and the stupas.

Day 3

Lohagad

Out to Malavli and up to the fort — four gates, the Vinchu Kata spur, and the plateau. Down in time for a train onward.

Getting Around

Getting around

The railway is what created the town and it is still the best way to reach it.

Getting there

  • Lonavala is a major stop on the Mumbai–Pune railway line; trains from both cities are frequent.
  • By road it is 96 km from Mumbai and 64 km from Pune, on the old highway and the expressway corridor.
  • Mumbai (BOM) and Pune (PNQ) are the two airports; both are a straightforward drive.

Moving around

  • Malavli, one stop along the line, is the station for Bhaja caves and the Lohagad approach.
  • Auto-rickshaws and taxis cover the town and the viewpoints; a car with driver is easier for the caves.
  • The last approach to Lohagad, Visapur and the Bhaja caves is on foot in every case.
  • Ghat roads are winding and busy at weekends; allow more time than the distance suggests.
Travel Intelligence

Travel intelligence

Four things that decide whether this trip works.

Two opposite seasonsMonsoon or dry

June to September is when the ghats run with water and the escarpment is spectacular — and when the caves are slippery and the light is poor. October to February is the season for Karla, Bhaja and Lohagad. Choose which trip you are taking before you book.

The weekendA season of its own

Lonavala is the nearest hill station to both Mumbai and Pune, and Saturday and Sunday are a different town — roads, viewpoints and Bhushi Dam all fill. Midweek is the whole experience.

The caves are the pointKarla and Bhaja

The town is named after them. The Grand Chaitya at Karla is the largest rock-cut chaitya hall in India and Bhaja is among the earliest; both are more remarkable than anything in the town itself.

Pace1–2 nights

One night covers the town and one cave site. Two lets you do Karla, Bhaja and Lohagad properly. It is also a comfortable stop between Mumbai and Pune rather than a destination on its own.

Where to Stay

Where to stay

A small town with a weekend problem — where you stay matters less than when you book.

In the town

  • Closest to the station, the market and the chikki shops, and walkable.
  • The practical choice without a car.

Towards Khandala and the ghat edge

  • Closer to the escarpment viewpoints and quieter at night.
  • Better for the monsoon views; you will drive or take an auto into town.

Out towards Malavli

  • Nearest the Karla and Bhaja caves and the approach to Lohagad.
  • The right base if the caves and forts are the reason you came.
Where to Photograph

Where to photograph

The escarpment wants cloud; the caves want dry light.

Monsoon

  • Tiger’s Leap, when cloud is moving through the valley below.
  • The ghat road waterfalls, which run only for these months.
  • Bhushi Dam with water over the steps — busy, and that is part of the picture.

Dry season

  • The Grand Chaitya at Karla, whose interior needs the long light of early morning.
  • The Bhaja chaitya facade and the row of stupas beside it.
  • Lohagad from the Vinchu Kata spur, with the plateau falling away on both sides.
Nearby

Nearby

What is within reach of the town, and what is a different trip.

Khandala
The next station along the ghat edge
Pune
64 km east · the Peshwa city
Mumbai
96 km west · the coast and the airport
Matheran
Car-free hill station north-west
Mahabaleshwar
The larger hill station south
Bedsa Caves
The third cave group in the town’s name
Good to Know

Frequently asked

The name comes from leni, meaning caves, and avali, meaning a series — a series of caves. It refers to the rock-cut Buddhist complexes at Karla, Bhaja and Bedsa that lie a few kilometres from the town. The caves are older than the hill station by roughly two thousand years.
They are two different trips. June to September is when the ghats run with water and the escarpment is at its most dramatic, and it is also when the caves are slippery and poorly lit. October to February is the season for Karla, Bhaja and Lohagad. Decide which you are coming for before you book.
One night covers the town and one cave site; two lets you do Karla, Bhaja and Lohagad properly. It also works as a comfortable overnight stop between Mumbai and Pune rather than a destination in itself.
By train — Lonavala is a major stop on the Mumbai–Pune railway and services from both cities are frequent. By road it is 96 km from Mumbai and 64 km from Pune. Malavli, one stop further along the line, is the station for the Bhaja caves and the Lohagad approach.
It is the nearest hill station to both Mumbai and Pune, so Saturday and Sunday fill the roads, the viewpoints and Bhushi Dam. Midweek is a substantially different and better experience if your dates allow it.
A hard candy of jaggery and nuts that Lonavala is known for producing, sold from shops throughout the town. It is the local thing people take home, and the variety on offer is larger than most visitors expect.
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