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Junagarh Fort

Jakub Hałun, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Attraction · Bikaner

Junagarh Fort

Built on the plain rather than a hill, and never taken in four hundred years — with interiors better preserved than almost anything comparable in Rajasthan.

Begun1589
UnusuallyBuilt on flat ground
Time neededTwo to three hours
WhereCentral Bikaner
About

A fort on flat ground

Rajasthan’s forts are on hills because hills are defensible. Junagarh is not — it stands on the plain, and it was still never taken. What that produced is a fort whose interiors were never sacked, and they are the reason to come.

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What to See

The interiors

The palaces inside were added by successive rulers over three centuries, so the rooms run from red sandstone austerity to gold leaf and lacquer without ever quite settling.

Anup Mahal

  • The audience hall, worked in gold leaf over red and finished to a standard that survives intact. It is the single most striking room in the building.

Phool Mahal and Badal Mahal

  • The flower palace and the cloud palace — the latter painted with clouds and rain, which in Bikaner is less decoration than wishful thinking.

Karan Mahal

  • The public audience court, and the clearest sense in the fort of what the space was actually for.

The museum

  • Arms, manuscripts and, unexpectedly, a First World War biplane presented to the Maharaja. It is genuinely there and it is genuinely odd.
Getting There

Getting there

It is in the middle of Bikaner and needs no arranging.

In town

  • Central, on the main road, with the walls visible from most of the surrounding streets. Any auto will take you.

From Jaipur

  • Around six hours north-west, and the drive is the transition from farmland into the Thar. Most itineraries arrive in the afternoon and do the fort the next morning.

On to Jaisalmer

  • About six hours west across open desert. Bikaner is the natural break between Jaipur and Jaisalmer rather than a detour.
Best Time

When to go

Interiors, so the weather matters less than it does elsewhere in the state — but this is still the Thar.

Season

  • November to February. Bikaner gets extremely hot from April onwards and the fort is not air-conditioned.

Hour

  • Morning. The rooms are toured in sequence and going early means moving through them ahead of the groups rather than behind them.

How long

  • Two to three hours including the museum. The palace rooms are seen in a set order, so the pace is partly decided for you.
Visitor Intelligence

Worth knowing

A few things specific to this fort.

The route is fixed

  • The palace interiors are visited as a sequence rather than wandered. That is what has kept them in this condition, and it means doubling back is not really an option.

Photography

  • Rules differ between the courtyards and the painted rooms, and low light in the interiors makes flash tempting and unwelcome. Check at the entrance rather than assume.

The camel station

  • The government camel breeding and research centre outside town is the other Bikaner stop and is more interesting than it sounds — a working station rather than a display.

Bikaner as a stop

  • Most people give it one night between Jaipur and Jaisalmer. The fort justifies that on its own; the sweets Bikaner is famous for are the other argument.
Nearby

Nearby

The rest of Bikaner.

Bikaner
The city guide
The camel research centre
A working station outside town
Jaisalmer
West across the Thar · 6 hrs
Good to Know

Frequently asked

Bikaner was founded in 1488 on a caravan route rather than on a defensible hill, and the fort followed the city. An earlier fort stood on the site; the present one was begun in 1589 under Raja Rai Singh. The defence was the desert around it and the depth of the walls rather than height — and in practice it held, which is why the interiors are in the state they are.
Yes, and it is the natural one — roughly six hours from each, so it breaks a drive that is otherwise very long. The fort is the reason, and the painted and gilded rooms are better preserved than almost anything comparable you will see in the state.
Different, rather than lesser. Mehrangarh and Amber are spectacular from the outside and built into their hills, and much of what you remember about them is the approach and the view back down. Junagarh is unremarkable from the road and extraordinary once you are inside, because its rooms were never sacked and the gold leaf, lacquer and painted plaster are largely original. If you are choosing on exteriors, go to Jodhpur; if you are choosing on interiors, Junagarh wins comfortably.
There is — a First World War biplane presented to the Maharaja of Bikaner, displayed in the fort museum among the arms, miniatures and manuscripts. It is genuinely incongruous and it is one of the two or three things almost everybody remembers about the visit afterwards, which is worth knowing if you were planning to skip the museum rooms and go straight to the palaces.
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