Rajasthan

Ten to fourteen nights for a first trip. Six to eight covers Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur at a reasonable pace; under six means one long drive after another and you will remember the car more than the forts.

No. Rajasthan has no Inner Line Permit or protected-area requirement, and Indian travellers need only government photo ID. The only permits involved are park entry and safari slots at Ranthambore and Sariska, which are date- and zone-specific and booked in advance.

Yes, and it is one of the better Indian states for it. Journeys between the main cities are three to six hours, hotels are used to children, and forts, camel rides and puppet shows hold attention. Avoid April to June — the heat makes it genuinely difficult with young children.

Udaipur is the strongest case in India. Lake-facing heritage hotels, short transfers and a pace built around dinner rather than sightseeing volume. Jaisalmer desert camps work as a two-night add-on; Jaipur is the least romantic of the three and is better treated as the arrival city.

Partly. Delhi–Jaipur and Jodhpur–Jaisalmer are both strong rail routes, and the cities themselves are walkable. But Jodhpur–Udaipur, Ranthambore and Kumbhalgarh are awkward without a car, so most people end up with a driver for at least part of the route.

October to March for comfort, April to June for sightings. Tigers come to water as the heat builds, so the least pleasant months are the most reliable ones. The park closes for the monsoon, roughly July to September.

It spans the full range. Heritage hotels in former palaces are the premium end and are genuinely historic buildings rather than better rooms in new ones. Mid-range havelis are widely available, and a car with driver costs far less than the European equivalent. No prices are quoted here because they move with season and availability.

It spans the widest range of any Indian state. Heritage hotels in former palaces are genuinely historic buildings and priced accordingly; mid-range havelis in the same cities cost a fraction and are often more characterful. Value sits in the car-and-driver, which costs far less than the European equivalent and removes the hardest part of the trip. Costs rise sharply over Christmas, New Year and the Pushkar fair.

Yes, and it is one of the more straightforward Indian states for it — a well-worn route, plenty of other travellers, and hotels used to single occupancy. Trains and buses connect the main cities. Women travelling alone should take the usual precautions, particularly at night and around the busier bazaars, and pre-booked transport is worth more here than saving on a rickshaw.

Mostly, with two caveats. The forts involve long uphill walks on uneven stone — Amber, Mehrangarh and Kumbhalgarh all do — and there is little shade. And the driving days are long. Two nights per city rather than one, mornings for sightseeing, and skipping one fort rather than rushing three makes the difference.

It is the most photographed state in India for good reason. Best light is the first and last hour: Mehrangarh over the blue city late afternoon, Amber from the lake at dawn, Jaisalmer’s sandstone at sunset. Midday is flat and harsh. Expect a camera fee at most monuments and a separate one for tripods, and ask before photographing people in the bazaars.