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Saheliyon ki Bari

Kshitiz Sikka, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Attraction · Udaipur

Saheliyon ki Bari

A garden of fountains built for a queen's companions — and every jet in it still runs on gravity alone.

BuiltEighteenth century
FountainsGravity-fed, no pumps
Time neededForty-five minutes
WhereNorth of the old city
About

Water without a pump

The garden was laid out for the women who attended a Mewar queen, and its fountains are fed by a channel from Fateh Sagar above it. There is no machinery: the pressure is the drop from the lake, which is why they were still working when nothing else in the city was.

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What to See

Through the garden

Small, formal, walled and shaded — a completely different register from the palaces, and a deliberate relief from them.

The lotus pool

  • The central pool with marble kiosks at its corners and a fountain in the middle. It is the picture everybody takes and it deserves it.

The rain fountains

  • A pavilion where jets play from the roof edge to imitate monsoon rain. They are switched on for visitors and the effect is genuinely charming rather than gimmicky.

The marble elephants

  • Four carved elephants at the corners of one of the pools, spouting water. Eighteenth century and much repaired.

The bougainvillea and the shade

  • The planting is the other half of the point. After a morning in the palace this is where Udaipur stops being hard work.
Getting There

Getting there

It is out of the old city, so unlike most of Udaipur it needs transport.

By road

  • About ten to fifteen minutes north of the old city by auto or car, near Fateh Sagar.

On foot

  • Walkable from the Fateh Sagar lakeside but not sensibly from the palace, which is a good half hour away through traffic.

Fitting it in

  • It is the standard Udaipur afternoon, after the palace in the morning. That order works because it is shaded and low-effort.
Best Time

When to go

A garden, so the season shows more here than at a fort.

Season

  • October to March for comfort; the planting is at its best just after the monsoon, in September and October.

Hour

  • Late afternoon. The light through the trees is better and the fountains are more likely to be running for the evening.

How long

  • Forty-five minutes. It is small and it is not trying to fill an afternoon on its own.
Visitor Intelligence

Worth knowing

Manage one expectation and it is a good stop.

The fountains are not always on

  • They run on a schedule and on visitor numbers rather than continuously. If they are off when you arrive, ask — they are often switched on for a group.

It is small

  • Twenty minutes will do it if you are moving. It is a pause in the day rather than a destination, and treating it as one avoids disappointment.

Shade

  • The most reliably shaded thing to do in Udaipur in the middle of a hot afternoon.

Combining it

  • Pairs naturally with a Fateh Sagar loop or with the Monsoon Palace on the ridge above, which is fifteen minutes further on.
Good to Know

Frequently asked

The saheliyan — the companions and attendants who came to Udaipur with a Mewar queen as part of her dowry. It was laid out in the eighteenth century as a place for them rather than for the court, which is why it is intimate and shaded rather than grand, and why it has none of the ceremonial layout of a palace garden.
Yes. Water is channelled down from Fateh Sagar lake above the garden, and the pressure comes entirely from that drop. Nothing is pumped, and the system is the original one. It is the most interesting thing about the place and almost nobody mentions it.
Forty-five minutes at a gentle pace, or twenty if you are pushed for time. It is deliberately a pause between larger sights rather than a half day of its own, and Udaipur itineraries that allocate it more than an hour are padding the afternoon. Pairing it with the drive up to the Monsoon Palace for sunset is what makes it a properly shaped half day.
Not necessarily — they operate on a schedule and are often turned on when a group arrives rather than left running. If they are off, it is worth asking at the entrance. The rain-effect pavilion in particular is usually switched on for visitors.
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