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Attraction · Kyoto

Nanzen-ji

A former imperial villa turned head temple of its own Zen branch, with a vast wooden gate and a Meiji brick aqueduct running through the grounds.

Time needed1–1.5 hours
Became a temple1291
Free to enterThe grounds; halls and gate charged separately
DistrictHigashiyama, at the foot of the hills
About

A Zen headquarters with a Roman aqueduct in it

Nanzen-ji began as a retirement villa for a retired emperor and became a temple in 1291. It now heads its own branch of Rinzai Zen and occupies a wide, wooded precinct at the foot of the eastern hills where the Philosopher's Path begins. Two things make it unlike anywhere else in Kyoto. The first is the Sanmon, an enormous two-storey wooden gate you can climb, which opens a view back over the treetops towards the city. The second is Suirokaku — a red-brick arched aqueduct built in 1890 to carry water from Lake Biwa, driven straight through the temple grounds. A Victorian engineering work inside a thirteenth-century Zen precinct should look like vandalism and instead has become the image people remember.

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What to See

What to see

Grounds you can wander freely, with three things worth paying for.

🚪 Sanmon

  • A vast two-storey gate; the upper level is climbable and gives a view over the trees

🧱 Suirokaku

  • The 1890 brick aqueduct of the Lake Biwa Canal, running through the precinct

🪨 Hojo garden

  • A dry landscape garden attributed to the Kobori Enshu tradition, viewed from the abbot's quarters

⛩ Nanzen-in

  • A small sub-temple with a pond garden, up the slope past the aqueduct
Getting There

Getting there

The southern end of the Philosopher's Path, and easy to reach by subway.

🚇 By subway

  • Keage on the Tozai line, then a short walk down through the old incline

🚶 On foot

  • The southern terminus of the Philosopher's Path from Ginkaku-ji
Best Time

When to visit

Wooded and hill-backed, so it holds colour late and light early.

🍁 Late November

  • The maples around the aqueduct are among the best in eastern Kyoto

🌅 Early morning

  • The grounds are open and free, so an early walk costs nothing and is nearly empty

🌸 Spring

  • The Keage incline above the temple is lined with cherry
Visitor Intelligence

Visitor intelligence

Most of this is free, which surprises people.

🎫 Tickets

  • The grounds and aqueduct cost nothing; the gate, the Hojo garden and Nanzen-in are charged separately

🍽 Yudofu

  • The temple is the historic centre of Kyoto's tofu cooking, and several yudofu houses sit at its gate

📷 Photography

  • Through the aqueduct arches, with the slope behind — the picture everyone comes for

♿ Access

  • The main precinct is level; the gate is a steep internal stair and the aqueduct slope is uneven
Good to Know

Frequently asked

It carries the Lake Biwa Canal, an 1890 engineering project that brought water over the mountains into Kyoto. The route ran through the temple grounds and the arches were built in brick in the western manner of the day. It has been there long enough to become part of the place.
The grounds, including the aqueduct and the outside of the great gate, cost nothing. Climbing the gate, entering the Hojo garden and visiting the Nanzen-in sub-temple are each charged separately, so you can spend nothing or make a proper visit of it.
If you are steady on a steep wooden stair, yes — it is one of the few large temple gates in Kyoto you can go up, and the view over the treetops towards the city is the reward. The stair is not for everyone.
It is the southern end of it. The usual walk runs from Ginkaku-ji down to Nanzen-ji, so arriving here on foot from the north and finishing with lunch at one of the tofu houses by the gate is the natural shape of the morning.
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