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Montmartre

Terragio67, via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Attraction · Paris

Montmartre

A hill that was a village until Paris caught up with it, and still behaves like one two streets back from the crowd. The view is free and the best part is the walking.

Time neededHalf a day
Best timeEarly morning
CostFree to walk
District18th arrondissement
About

The village Paris grew around

Montmartre sits on the highest natural point in Paris and was a separate village of windmills and vineyards until the nineteenth century, which is why the streets behave nothing like the boulevards below. They bend, climb and stop. The painters came for the cheap rent, the tourists came for the painters, and the result is a place with two versions: the packed square at the top where portraitists work, and the quiet lanes a hundred metres away where people are simply going home. Both are real; only one is worth queueing for.

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What to See

What to walk to

The basilica is the landmark, but the hill is the attraction.

⛪ The landmark

  • Sacré-Cœur, white and domed, visible from most of northern Paris
  • The dome climb, which is a narrow spiral and the best view in the city on a clear day
  • The steps below it, where the whole of Paris opens out and where everyone sits at sunset

🎨 The old village

  • Place du Tertre, the painters' square — crowded, commercial, and part of the story
  • The vineyard on rue des Saules, a survivor of the hill's farming past
  • Rue de l'Abreuvoir and the lanes around it, which are what people mean when they say Montmartre

🪜 Getting up

  • The funicular from Place Saint-Pierre, which takes a métro ticket
  • The stairs beside it, which are steep and quicker than they look
  • The gentler approach from Abbesses through the back streets, which is the nicer walk
Getting There

Getting there

North of the centre, and the approach you choose changes the visit.

🚇 Métro

  • Abbesses is the atmospheric arrival — a deep station with a spiral staircase and a lift
  • Anvers puts you at the foot of the funicular and the busiest approach
  • Blanche is the Pigalle side, and a longer but quieter climb

🚶 On foot

  • Twenty-five minutes uphill from Gare du Nord
  • The hill is genuinely steep; comfortable shoes matter more here than anywhere else in Paris
Best Time

When to go

Montmartre is two different places before and after about eleven in the morning.

🕰️ Time of day

  • Early morning is the version worth having — the lanes are empty and the light is on the basilica
  • Sunset on the steps is the famous one and is shared with several hundred people
  • Evenings are lively rather than quiet, and the back streets stay pleasant

📅 Time of year

  • Spring and autumn are best; the hill is exposed and August is hot work

⏱️ How long

  • Half a day covers the basilica, the square and the lanes without rushing
Visitor Intelligence

Worth knowing

The hill has a reputation for hassle. Most of it is avoidable.

⚠️ On the approach

  • Friendship-bracelet sellers work the steps below the basilica and can be persistent; keep walking and do not offer a wrist
  • The square at the top is where prices are highest for the least interesting food

📷 Photography

  • The lanes photograph better than the viewpoint, which is usually hazy
  • Inside the basilica photography is not permitted; the dome is the picture

🍷 Eating

  • Walk two streets off Place du Tertre and both the quality and the price improve sharply

♿ Access

  • The funicular avoids the steepest climb; the lanes themselves are cobbled and steep throughout
Nearby

Nearby

What sits within reach of the hill.

The Louvre
Across the city · 25 min by métro
Eiffel Tower
The other landmark · 35 min
Pigalle
Directly downhill, and a different evening entirely
Good to Know

Frequently asked

Yes, but not for the square at the top, which is the most commercial corner of the hill. The reason to come is the walking — the lanes behind Sacré-Cœur, the vineyard, the streets that still bend like a village. Give it a morning on foot rather than an hour at the viewpoint and it becomes one of the better half-days in Paris.
The basilica itself is a working church and is open to visitors without a ticket. The dome is a separate climb up a narrow spiral staircase and is ticketed; it is the highest accessible point in Paris after the Eiffel Tower and the view is better than the one from the steps outside. Photography is not permitted inside the basilica.
Arrive early. Before about ten in the morning the lanes are genuinely quiet and the light is on the front of the basilica. By midday the funicular queue, the steps and Place du Tertre are all busy, and by sunset the steps hold several hundred people. The back approach from Abbesses stays quieter than the direct climb from Anvers at any hour.
It is a normal, busy Paris neighbourhood and the usual city sense applies. The specific nuisance is persistent bracelet sellers on the steps below the basilica, who work by getting a string round your wrist and then asking for money — keep walking and do not put a hand out. Pigalle at the foot of the hill is livelier at night and is a different character from the lanes above.
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