Christmas Markets
Central Europe's markets open in late November and most close on Christmas Eve — which towns are worth the trip, and when.
Several hundred markets across central Europe, opening in late November and mostly closing before Christmas itself.
The Essentials
The season is short and the closing date surprises people. Most markets open in the second half of November and a great many finish on 23 or 24 December rather than running through to the new year — so a trip planned for the week between Christmas and New Year often arrives after the thing it came for. A few cities extend into early January, and those are the exception rather than the rule.
The character varies more than the concept suggests. Germany holds the tradition the rest descend from, with Nuremberg and Dresden among the oldest. Austria runs the grand-square version in Vienna and Salzburg, Czech Republic the most photographed in Prague's Old Town Square, and France the Alsatian markets around Strasbourg and Colmar, which are their own tradition rather than a French copy of a German one.
For a first visit, choosing two or three towns within a short train ride of each other is a better trip than one city — the markets are an evening activity, and the days want something else in them.
Where to experience Christmas Markets
The places this happens, and what each one is actually like.
The oldest of the German markets, and the reference point for the whole tradition. Busiest at weekends; a weekday evening is a different experience entirely.
The grand-square version, set against imperial architecture, with the Alpine markets a short train ride away.
The most photographed setting, in the Old Town Square and at the castle — compact enough to see both in an evening.
The Alsatian markets, older than most and with their own food and dialect traditions rather than borrowed German ones.
The food-led version, in Vörösmarty Square and in front of St Stephen's, with the thermal baths as the reason to stay longer. Usually cheaper than the German and Austrian markets.
Winter Wonders in Brussels and a canal setting in Bruges, close enough together for both in a short trip, and an easy add to a London or Paris itinerary by train.
How to plan your Christmas Markets trip
Check the closing date, not just the opening one. Many markets end on 23 or 24 December. A trip booked for the week after Christmas can arrive to find the stalls already gone, which is the single most common mistake with this season.
String two or three towns together. The markets are compact and the rail links between them are good. Two nights in each of two or three towns sees far more than a week in one, and the trains are part of the pleasure.
Dress for standing still outdoors. This is an evening activity spent stationary in the cold, often below freezing. Warm layers and proper footwear matter more here than on almost any other European city break.
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