
Ingo Mehling · Mysuru Palace - North Gates - 2.jpg · Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0) · https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mysuru_Palace_-_North_Gates_-_2.jpg
Mysuru
A working royal city with a palace still in ceremonial use, a hill temple above it, and the best-organised sightseeing in the state.
Mysuru
The one city in Karnataka where everything a visitor wants is close together and well run.
Explore Mysuru on the map
City locations, drawn from our published destination data. Attractions, hotels and restaurants are not mapped yet.
What to do
A palace, a hill, a market and a zoo that is genuinely good.
The palace and the centre
- Amba Vilas Palace — the present building was completed in 1912 to Henry Irwin's design after fire destroyed its wooden predecessor in 1897. Give it two hours.
- The Sunday and Dasara illumination, when the whole facade is lit. It runs for a short window in the evening and it is worth arranging your week around.
- Jaganmohan Palace, now an art gallery, and St Philomena's Cathedral, neo-Gothic with twin spires.
- Devaraja Market — flowers, bananas and pyramids of kumkum. The most photographed hour in the city, and rightly.
Above and around
- Chamundi Hill and the Chamundeshwari temple, by road or by the stepped path, with the great Nandi monolith on the way up — see the temple page.
- Mysore Zoo, opened in 1892 and among the best-regarded in India, which is not a sentence we write often about a zoo.
- Brindavan Gardens at the KRS dam, about 19 km, with the evening musical fountain — an outing rather than a sight.
- The Rail Museum, small and good, if the subject interests you.
Out of the city
- Srirangapatna and Ranganathittu, 19 km — Tipu Sultan's island and a bird sanctuary in one half-day.
- Somanathapura, 35 km — the third of the Hoysala temples inscribed by UNESCO.
- Bandipur and Nagarhole, both about 80 km, for Forest Department safari.
- Melukote, 50 km, and Shravanabelagola, about 85 km.
Channapatna toys, Mysore silk and sandalwood — and what to be careful about
- Three Geographical Indications are buyable in one city, which is unusual, and one of them is routinely faked.
- Channapatna lacquerware toys are turned from ivory-wood on a lathe and coloured with vegetable dyes, in a town on the Bengaluru road about 70 km away. They are cheerful, genuinely local and easy to carry.
- Mysore silk is a GI and the state silk corporation's own showroom is the straightforward place to buy it with provenance. Weight, zari content and the certification are what you are paying for.
- SANDALWOOD IS THE ONE TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT. Indian sandalwood is a strictly regulated crop, genuine heartwood is expensive, and a great deal of what is sold to visitors here is not sandalwood at all.
- If the price seems reasonable for the quantity, that is your answer. Government sandal-oil products are the route to provenance rather than a story told over a counter.
- Mysore sandal soap is the honest, cheap and genuinely local souvenir, and it is made by the state undertaking.
- We name no private shop and take no commission from any. Commission arrangements between drivers and emporia are normal here and worth knowing about.
How long to give it
The palace
Amba Vilas at opening, before the queue and the heat. Two hours inside, and photography is not permitted — leave the camera in the car.
The market and the hill
Devaraja Market in the afternoon, then Chamundi Hill for the late light and the temple. The Nandi is on the way up.
Out of the city
Srirangapatna and Ranganathittu in the morning, Somanathapura after lunch — or give the whole day to one reserve.
Where people go
Coorg about 120 km; Bandipur or Nagarhole about 80 km; Chikmagalur about 180 km; Bengaluru about 145 km.
How to reach and move
Well connected, and small enough to cross.
Getting here
- Bengaluru (BLR) is the practical airport, about 185 km. Mysuru has its own airport (MYQ) with limited services — check current schedules rather than assuming a flight.
- The Bengaluru–Mysuru expressway has brought the road journey down to roughly two and a half hours.
- Mysuru Junction is a good railhead, with fast services from Bengaluru including the daytime express.
- Coorg is about 120 km, Bandipur and Nagarhole about 80 km each, Chikmagalur about 180 km.
Getting around
- The centre is compact and walkable between the palace, the market and Jaganmohan.
- Autos are plentiful and a half-day car makes sense for Chamundi Hill plus anything outside the city.
- Chamundi Hill has a road to the top as well as the stepped path, and parking at the summit fills early on weekends.
- The reserves need a vehicle and a booked safari — a day trip cannot be improvised at the gate.
When to visit
Comfortable most of the year, and completely different during Dasara.
Dry and comfortable, and it overlaps Dasara at the front end.
Genuinely hot and open. The palace courtyard, Chamundi Hill and the market are all unshaded.
Rain in bursts. It is the worst window for the reserves and a reasonable one for the city.
Ten days, ending with the Jamboo Savari elephant procession. The city fills completely and rooms go months ahead. The dates follow the lunar calendar and we publish none — verify for your year.
Counter-intuitively the hot months are the strongest for sightings at Bandipur and Nagarhole, because water is scarce and animals concentrate.
The city's character
A palace kitchen, a ten-day festival and a yoga lineage.
What shapes it
- The Wodeyars ruled here for most of six centuries, with an interruption under Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan, and the city's institutions — the zoo, the university, the art gallery, the planned roads — largely date from that patronage.
- Dasara is the city's own festival, and the state's. Ten days, culminating in the Jamboo Savari procession in which a decorated elephant carries the golden howdah from the palace to Bannimantap, followed by a torchlight parade. The dates move with the lunar calendar and we publish none.
- Mysuru is the world centre of Ashtanga yoga. Practitioners come for months rather than days, and the neighbourhoods around Gokulam have shaped themselves around that.
- The city has a serious Carnatic music tradition, and the palace maintained musicians as a matter of course.
What to eat
- Mysore pak — gram flour, sugar and a great deal of ghee, created in the palace kitchens. The soft, ghee-heavy version and the harder, drier one are both defended fiercely.
- Mysore masala dosa, red chutney spread inside, and the softer butter-heavy Mylari-style dosa which is a Mysuru thing and not a Bengaluru one.
- Bisi bele bath, rice, lentils and vegetables with its own spice blend, at its best here.
- Filter coffee everywhere, and it is good.
- We name no restaurant or sweet shop. Ask where the queue is at eight in the morning.
Mysore pak, and the palace kitchen it came out of
- Mysore pak was invented in the palace kitchens — gram flour, sugar and a very large quantity of ghee, cooked to the point where it sets. It is named for the city and it belongs to it.
- There are two schools and people are serious about them. The soft, ghee-heavy version that almost melts, and the harder, drier, more porous one. Neither side concedes.
- Mysore masala dosa carries a layer of red chutney spread inside before the potato goes in, which is what distinguishes it from every other masala dosa in the country.
- The Mylari-style dosa is a Mysuru form and not a Bengaluru one — small, soft, pale and heavy with butter, served with a coconut chutney rather than crisped.
- Bisi bele bath — rice, toor dal, tamarind and a spice blend of its own — is at its best in this part of the state.
- We name no restaurant or sweet shop. The reliable method here is to look for the queue at eight in the morning and join it.
Practical tips
One palace, one hill, and one purchase to be careful about.
At the palace
- Go at opening. The queue and the heat both build through the morning
- Photography is not permitted inside and there are deposit counters. Footwear comes off
- The illumination runs for a short window on Sunday evenings and during Dasara — check the current timing locally rather than relying on any printed figure
- Foreign-visitor entry is charged at a higher rate, as at most Indian monuments, and rates change
Shopping — and the sandalwood problem
- A great deal of what is sold to visitors as sandalwood is not sandalwood. Genuine Indian sandalwood is a heavily regulated crop, it is expensive, and the price being asked is usually the clearest signal
- Buy sandalwood oil and soap from the government emporium if you want provenance rather than a story. We name no private shop
- Mysore silk is a Geographical Indication and the state corporation's showroom is the straightforward place to buy it
- Channapatna lacquer toys are made on the Bengaluru road and sold here — cheerful, genuinely local, and easy to carry
Practicalities
- Chamundi Hill can be climbed or driven. The steps are around a thousand and are done barefoot by devotees; there is no requirement for you to
- Dasara requires booking months ahead, and the city is effectively full
- Safari at Bandipur or Nagarhole must be booked — you cannot turn up at the gate and expect a seat
- Carry cash for the market, temple offerings and autos
Brindavan Gardens and the evening options
- Brindavan Gardens sits below the KRS dam about 19 km out, and the draw is the musical fountain in the evening rather than the planting.
- It is an outing rather than a sight, and it is enormously popular with domestic visitors — expect crowds and a managed queue at the fountain.
- Timings for the fountain are short and set locally, and they shift with the season. Check on the day rather than planning around a published figure.
- The alternative evening is the palace illumination, which runs on Sundays and through Dasara and is the better of the two if your dates allow it.
- Mysore Zoo takes a half-day and is among the better-regarded zoos in India, which is not a sentence we write often.
- Do not attempt Brindavan and the palace illumination on the same evening. They are in opposite directions and both are time-bound.
Nearby
The city, and the best-connected radius in the state.
Related to Mysuru
Journeys that include Mysuru — each one visits the city as part of its itinerary.
Common questions
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