Nilgiris, Kodagu & Mysuru at Length — Six Nights

The Mettupalayam ghat from Coimbatore, climbing out of the plains through tea and eucalyptus to the open downs. Under three hours, and a temperature drop of fifteen degrees or more depending on the month. The rest of the day is yours — the lake, the town, and the walk up to the church on the rise are all within reach on foot, and the first afternoon of a six-night trip is better used adjusting than driving.

Doddabetta at first light for the range view, then the botanical gardens laid out in 1848 on the flank of Elk Hill. The toy train down to Coonoor in the middle of the day where seats are available — an hour to cover half an hour of road, on a rack line that has been worked the same way since 1899. A tea estate and factory in the afternoon, from the withering loft through to the grading table, and Sim's Park or Dolphin's Nose to finish.

Pykara first — the lake and falls on the quiet side of the plateau, and the last of the Nilgiris. Then west and down through Gudalur, across Mudumalai and along the Nagarhole boundary into Kodagu. Around 250 km and close to six hours, most of it under canopy, and the stretch where elephant and gaur are genuinely likely in the last hours of light. Into Madikeri late, with nothing asked of the evening.

Morning on a working estate while it is cool: arabica grown under a shade canopy, pepper vines on the trunks, cardamom in the wet corners, and the drying yard if the fruit is in. Abbey Falls afterwards, at the end of a plantation path. The afternoon climbs the valley to Bhagamandala and Talacauvery, where the Kaveri rises below Brahmagiri, and finishes at Raja's Seat for the sunset the town turns out for.

Dubare on the Kaveri early, then Namdroling Monastery at Bylakuppe on the way east — three gilded figures eighteen metres high in a hall that has no business being in the middle of Karnataka, and a Tibetan settlement around it dating to 1961. Under three hours from there to Mysuru across open plateau. The afternoon takes Devaraja Market while it is trading and the government silk works if you want to see the looms running.

Chamundi Hill at opening and the monolithic Nandi on the descent, then the palace for the rest of the morning — Durbar Hall, the marriage pavilion, the armoury. The afternoon goes east to Somnathpur, about 35 km out, where the Keshava temple of 1268 is the most complete Hoysala building standing: three shrines on a star plan, carved in soapstone from the plinth to the tower, and now inscribed by UNESCO alongside Belur and Halebidu. Back for the evening, and Brindavan's fountain if the timing suits.

Ranganathittu at opening, where the Kaveri braids around a set of small islands and the boats go among nesting painted storks, ibis, spoonbill and darter — the colonies are active from roughly June to October and the place is quieter, though still worth it, outside that. Srirangapatna is minutes further on for Tipu Sultan's summer palace and the Gumbaz. Then east to Bangalore, around three hours, for an afternoon or evening departure.