Kashmir in Four Nights — Srinagar, Gulmarg & Pahalgam

Met at the airport and into the city, and because this itinerary has only four nights the gardens are done today rather than saved. Nishat Bagh rises in twelve terraces below the Zabarwan hills and Shalimar Bagh, made by Jahangir in 1619, is the grander of the two. The included hour of shikara closes the afternoon, out among the floating gardens as the light drops. It is a full first day and it is deliberately so.

West and up, about 50 km and two hours, climbing through Tangmarg to Gulmarg at around 2,650 m — a bowl of meadow ringed by fir, which in summer is entirely covered in wildflowers and gave the place its name. The Gondola is the reason to be here: the first stage climbs to Kongdoori at about 3,080 m and the second to Apharwat at nearly 3,980 m, which is high enough that snow lies well into summer. Tickets are bought from the corporation and are excluded; the second phase closes without notice for wind.

The long traverse of the valley floor, around 140 km and four hours, dropping out of Gulmarg and crossing to the south-east through Pampore's saffron karewas and past the ninth-century ruins at Awantipora. Into Pahalgam at about 2,200 m in the afternoon, where the Lidder runs through the middle of the town and the walk upstream along it is the best thing to do with what is left of the day.

The upper valleys in the morning by local union taxi, which is the only vehicle permitted above the town — Betaab first, closest and most photographed, and Aru higher up if time allows. Baisaran meadow is an hour on foot or a pony ride from the town, both paid directly. Then back to Srinagar, about two and a half hours, and aboard a houseboat for the last night, with dinner served on the water.

Breakfast aboard, and out on the water beforehand for the floating vegetable market if you can face the hour — it begins around half past four and is over by seven. Then to the airport, which needs three hours in hand rather than two: Srinagar has multiple security cordons before the terminal and the process cannot be hurried.