Kathmandu & Pokhara, 5 Nights

Met at Tribhuvan airport and driven into the city; the time depends on traffic, which in Kathmandu is rarely light. Nothing is planned for the evening, so you can settle in. If you arrive early, a slow walk through the lanes of Thamel is an easy introduction, with its shops, bakeries and prayer-flag stalls, but nothing is planned. Dinner at the hotel or one of the many restaurants nearby; Nepali dal bhat and momos are both easy to find in vegetarian form.

Mornings are quiet at Pashupatinath, the Shiva temple complex on the Bagmati river, inscribed by UNESCO. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main shrine, but the terraces across the river give a clear view of the ghats, the sadhus and the rituals; your guide explains what you are seeing. From there it is a short drive to Boudhanath, among the biggest stupas anywhere, ringed by monasteries. Walk the kora clockwise at dusk when butter lamps are lit. Rest in the afternoon.

Swayambhunath sits on a wooded hill west of the city, reached by a long stone stairway lined with prayer wheels and, yes, rhesus monkeys, so keep food and sunglasses out of sight. The view over the valley is best before the haze builds. After lunch, the old royal square at Hanuman Dhoka shows Newar carving at its finest: temples with tiered roofs, the palace courtyards and the living goddess's house. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee here, which the package covers.

Pokhara is 200 km west, and the road follows the Trishuli river for the first part before the hills open out. Plan on about 7 hours with stops, sometimes 8 or more with traffic, roadworks or landslides. The flight takes about 25 to 30 minutes but is sometimes delayed by weather; it saves the day and costs extra. Either way, you arrive in time for a walk along Phewa Lake's Lakeside, with the first mountains visible at dusk if the sky is clear.

A very early start by vehicle to Sarangkot, about 30 to 45 minutes uphill, for the sunrise over the Annapurna range and the fish-tail peak of Machapuchare. The view depends on the weather and the season, and clouds sometimes take it. Back for breakfast, then Davis Falls, where a stream disappears into a deep gorge, and a rowing boat out to the Tal Barahi temple on its island. The afternoon is free, or you can drive up to the World Peace Pagoda for a view across the lake.

If you are flying out of Kathmandu, there are two ways to return. Take the morning flight from Pokhara, which is quick but sometimes delayed by weather, and connect with plenty of margin. Or go by road, leaving after breakfast, which takes most of the day and is better suited to an evening international flight. We suggest the flight for any departure before late afternoon; tell us your flight time and we shape the day to fit it.