Sri Lanka Ramayana Trail, 6 Nights

Met at Bandaranaike International and driven the short way to Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara on the river north of Colombo, the first site of the trail: tradition holds that Lakshmana crowned Vibhishana king here after Ravana's defeat, and the temple keeps a shrine to Vibhishana beside its stupa and painted image house. Then into Colombo for the Panchamuga Anjaneyar temple at Kalubowila, the island's five-faced Hanuman, and a rest at the hotel. Evening on Galle Face Green with the sea wind.

North along the coast to Chilaw. Munneswaram is one of the five ancient Shiva temples of the island, where Rama is said to have stopped to pray to be released from the sin of killing Ravana, a Brahmin; a few kilometres on, Manavari holds the lingam tradition names as the first Rama installed, the Ramalingam. Then inland by Kurunegala to Kandy, three hours through coconut and rice country. The evening is the Temple of the Tooth at the 6:30 puja, drums in the courtyard, the relic chamber open.

The tea road climbs from Gampola past the Ramboda Falls, and at Ramboda the Sri Bhakta Hanuman temple stands on the hillside where tradition says Hanuman first set foot searching for Sita. On to Nuwara Eliya and beyond it to Sita Eliya, where the Seetha Amman temple sits beside the stream in which Sita is said to have bathed during her captivity, with the depressions in the rock across the water called Hanuman's footprints. A short drive further is Hakgala, the botanical garden identified with the Ashok Vatika where she was held. Back to Nuwara Eliya for the night, cold and clear.

Out on the Welimada road to Divurumpola, the temple whose name means "place of oath", where tradition places Sita's ordeal by fire; it is a Buddhist temple today and its bo tree and shrine are used for the swearing of oaths in local disputes. Back in Nuwara Eliya, the Gayathri Peedam is linked to Meghanath, Ravana's son, and his penance. The afternoon is the town itself: Gregory Lake, Victoria Park, the racecourse and the post office, with a stop at a tea factory if you missed one yesterday.

Down the Badulla road and through the Ella Gap. Ravana Falls drops in tiers beside the Wellawaya road below the village, and above it, on the hillside, the cave where tradition says Ravana hid Sita — a steep climb of about 650 steps to a small opening, which is optional. Ella itself is a hill village of cafés with a view down the gap; the Nine Arches Bridge is a short walk for anyone who wants it, and the evening is free.

The long day south. Out through Wellawaya to the coast at Hambantota and along to Ussangoda, a plateau of red, barren earth above the sea near Ambalantota that tradition explains as the ground scorched when Hanuman's burning tail set Ravana's airfield alight. Lunch on the coast, then west to Galle and the Rumassala hill above Unawatuna bay: the piece of Himalaya, with its healing herbs, that Hanuman is said to have dropped while carrying the mountain to Lakshmana. Sunset on the ramparts of Galle Fort and a night inside the walls.

A morning walk in the fort, then the Southern and Katunayake expressways to the airport, about two hours. A later flight allows a stop at Colombo's Gangaramaya temple or the Pettah Hindu temples on the way. Flights to Chennai, Madurai and Trichy take under an hour and a half; Bengaluru and Kochi are similar.