Manila & El Nido, 5 Nights

A representative meets the flight at Ninoy Aquino airport and the drive into the city follows, its length decided entirely by Manila's traffic. Check-in is usually from mid-afternoon. The first evening is best kept short: an early meal near the hotel and a look at the city lights, since the real sightseeing is tomorrow and the island days that follow start early. If you arrive in daylight, the promenade along Manila Bay is the place for sunset.

Manila's history in one morning, with a private guide. The American war cemetery at Fort Bonifacio is the first stop, its curved memorial walls listing the missing of the Pacific war. Rizal Park follows, with the monument to the writer and patriot whose execution in 1896 turned the revolution against Spain. Inside the walls of Intramuros are Fort Santiago on the river, the rebuilt Manila Cathedral, and San Agustin, whose carved doors and painted ceiling survived the destruction of 1945. Casa Manila recreates the house of a wealthy colonial family, and the Baluarte de San Diego is the oldest stone bastion. Afternoon free.

An early transfer for the small-aircraft flight to Lio airport just north of El Nido town; the fare is not in the package, and baggage allowances on this route are tighter than usual, which we confirm when booking. Palawan announces itself from the air with the islands of Bacuit Bay scattered below. After check-in, the afternoon is free: the beach in town, or a ride south to Las Cabanas for the sunset behind the islands.

The lagoon day goes first because it is the reason most people come, and if the sea is rough tomorrow is the fallback. The private boat heads out to Miniloc island. Boats anchor at the mouth of the Big Lagoon and the last stretch is by kayak, between cliffs that rise sheer from green water. Small Lagoon is similar in miniature, and the Secret Lagoon is reached by ducking through a gap in the rock into a pool hidden inside the island. Lunch stops and snorkelling follow at Shimizu island and the long curve of Seven Commandos beach.

A gentler day on the eastern side of the bay, where fewer boats go. Cadlao is the big island facing town, and its lagoon is ringed by forest and limestone. Pasandigan Cove is a small sheltered bay for swimming; Nat-Nat is a long strip of pale sand usually almost empty; Paradise Beach has clear shallow water good for children. With a private boat the order and length of each stop are yours, and the captain will choose the calm side of the islands if the wind picks up.

Breakfast, then the transfer to Lio airport for the flight back to Manila and your connection home. Flights out of El Nido are few, and weather can delay them, so we build a comfortable gap before the international departure. With an afternoon flight there is time for a last swim or a coffee in town first.