Ladakh: Leh, Nubra & Pangong, 6 Nights

Leh sits at about 3,500 metres, and flights from Delhi usually land in the morning (schedules vary), so the first day is left alone. Met at the airport and taken to the hotel, which is only a short drive away. Rest, drink water, eat lightly and skip any climbing. If you feel fine by late afternoon, an easy walk along the main bazaar is enough. The mountains here are part of the show, and no plan is made for today beyond arrival.

A slow second day in Leh itself. Leh Palace, the nine-storey former royal home on the hill above the bazaar, comes first; the stairs go slowly, and the view over the rooftops is the reward. After lunch, the Shanti Stupa, a white-domed peace pagoda reached by a short drive and a flight of steps, is best around sunset, when the valley turns pink. The rest of the evening is for tea, shopping and early bed.

West of Leh on the road beside the Indus, at lower altitude than Leh itself. The stops are the Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Magnetic Hill, where cars appear to roll uphill, and the Sangam, where the Zanskar joins the Indus and two colours of water run side by side. Time is left for a monastery, usually Alchi, if you wish. Back in Leh by evening, one more night at the same hotel before the passes.

Leave early. The road climbs from Leh over the Khardung La, among the world's highest motorable passes, at over 5,300 metres. Stay at the top only for a short photo stop, as the air is thin and cold, before the road drops towards the Nubra Valley. Diskit monastery has the large Maitreya Buddha looking down the valley. At Hunder, the sand dunes are cold desert, and a double-humped camel ride is an optional extra on the dunes. Overnight in a camp or guesthouse near Hunder.

A long day on a remote road that follows the Shyok River south towards Pangong Lake, with open views and few places to eat or fuel. The road is rough in places and its condition depends on the season, so the driver and we decide the route on the morning and may reroute through Leh. You reach the lake in the afternoon: a long, narrow lake that is blue and green by turns. Dinner and the night are in a basic camp on the shore, with simple beds and shared toilets.

A morning by the lake while the light is clean and the wind is still low. After breakfast the road leaves the water, climbing over the Chang La, another high pass, and down through Tangtse and Karu to the Indus, then into Leh. Lunch is on the way. The hotel in Leh is used for the final night, so you can unpack, shower and have a warm meal. Evening free for a last walk through the market.

Breakfast, a short morning and the transfer to Leh airport. Flights to Delhi leave early in the morning, so the transfer may be well before breakfast hours, and the driver confirms the time the evening before. Allow extra time at the airport for baggage checks, which are strict. If your flight is late in the day, the Leh bazaar is a short walk from most hotels for dry fruit, shawls and prayer flags.