Kashmir Complete — Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam & Sonamarg

Met at the airport and driven to the lakeside. The included hour of shikara fills the late afternoon, out past the floating gardens and the lotus beds with the Zabarwan hills behind — a gentle start, which this itinerary needs more than most because it visits four bases in six nights and every subsequent day has something in it.

The Mughal terraces in the morning — Chashme Shahi of 1632, Nishat of 1633 in twelve zodiacal levels, and Shalimar, built by Jahangir in 1619, with Pari Mahal on the ridge above. The afternoon is the old city: Jama Masjid resting on more than three hundred deodar columns, Shah-e-Hamdan built without nails and painted throughout, and the papier-mâché and walnut workshops in the lanes between them.

North-east up the Sindh valley, about 80 km and two and a half hours on the road that eventually crosses the Zoji La into Ladakh. Sonamarg sits at around 2,800 m where the valley opens into meadow below high snow — the name means meadow of gold, for the flowers. The Thajiwas glacier hangs above it and is reached by pony from the roadside, hired directly from the owners. Zero Point, further up toward the pass, is operated only by the local taxi union and is paid on the day.

Back down the Sindh valley and across the north of the Kashmir valley to the western hills — around four hours in total, climbing at the end through Tangmarg. Gulmarg is a bowl of meadow at about 2,650 m ringed with fir, wildflower through the summer, holding a golf course among the highest in the world and a small stone church of 1902. The afternoon is for walking it, with the gondola left for the morning when the wind is lowest.

Up early for the Gondola — Kongdoori at about 3,080 m, then Apharwat at close to 3,980 m, where snow lies through the summer and the Pir Panjal stands opposite. Tickets are bought at the corporation counter and are excluded. Then the long traverse south-east across the valley, around four hours, past the Pampore saffron karewas and the Awantipora ruins, into Pahalgam at about 2,200 m for the evening beside the Lidder.

The upper valleys in the morning by local union taxi, which is the only permitted vehicle above the town — Betaab closest and greenest, Aru higher and quieter. Baisaran is an hour on foot or by pony if the morning allows it. Then back to Srinagar, two and a half hours, and aboard a houseboat for the last night: cedar panelling, carpets, a verandah on the water and dinner served aboard.

Out before five for the floating vegetable market if you are willing, which after six days of mountains is a very different last impression of Kashmir — growers trading from boat to boat on open water and gone by seven. Breakfast aboard. Then the airport, allowing three hours: Srinagar's security begins with vehicle checks on the approach and involves two further screenings before the gate.