Dandeli & the Karnataka Coast — Four Nights from the Kali River to Udupi

Hubballi has the airport and the main-line station, and Dandeli is only 74 km south-west of it — under two hours, the plateau dropping into the teak and bamboo of the Uttara Kannada forests. Into the river stay by midday. The afternoon is the Kali itself: a coracle spin on the slow water below the camp, the kingfishers and, if the light holds, the hornbills that make the reserve famous. Dinner by the river, with the forest loud after dark. · Hubballi to Dandeli · overnight Dandeli · Private car

Rafting in the morning: the Kali runs on releases from the Supa dam, which is why it is one of the few rivers in the south raftable through the dry months of March to June, and the graded rapids below the camp take about two hours with the outfitter's guides. The afternoon goes into the Kali Tiger Reserve, which admits visitors from six to six — the Kulgi nature trails on foot with a guide, a 3 km walk through the hornbill forest, and Syntheri Rocks, the 90-metre monolith on the Kaneri. The Kavala caves, a steep walk, if there is time and energy. · Dandeli · Raft, jeep and on foot

West through the ghats and down to the coast, about 150 km and four hours to Gokarna. The Mahabaleshwar temple first, the fourth-century shrine that holds the Atmalinga and gives the town its pilgrims, and then Om Beach, the twin-curved cove that gives it its travellers — an hour on the sand or a walk over the headland to Kudle. Then south on the coastal highway, 78 km and two hours, to Murudeshwar for the evening: the 37-metre Shiva on its headland, lit after dark, and the sea on three sides. · Dandeli to Murudeshwar · overnight Murudeshwar · Private car

The gopura at opening: the lift runs to the top of the 20-storey tower and the view along the coast and down onto the Shiva is the reason to be here early. Then south on the coastal road, about 100 km and two and a half hours, into Udupi. The Krishna Matha in the afternoon — the deity is seen through the nine-holed Kanakana Kindi window, as it has been since the sixteenth century — and Kaup lighthouse on the beach at sunset, 12 km south, which opens to visitors in the late afternoon. Dinner is the town's own: the Udupi cuisine of the temple kitchens. · Murudeshwar to Udupi · overnight Udupi · Private car

Malpe, 5 km from the town, for the boat to St Mary's Islands — the columnar basalt of the islands is a National Geological Monument, and the boats run from nine to half past five except in the monsoon months of June to September, when the sea is closed. Two hours on the islands and back. Then the coastal highway south, 58 km and an hour and a half to Mangaluru airport, for an afternoon or evening flight. Your Live Traveller journey ends at the airport. · Udupi to Mangaluru · Boat and private car